A haute couture of first lady but not only

How to take advantage of a parade haute couture to redefine the essence of a brand House Dior is concerned with, commands, John Galliano. His appearances are less dramatic than in the past but always also calculated effects. Monday 6 July in the salons of the avenue Montaigne, clients are there, for a parade that speaks of power. An intimidating Panel Announces "Do not disturb" on the door of the studio of John Galliano. And for the models, another, more disturbing still, indicates "Monsieur Dior watching you". What keep everyone under pressure.

After several seasons to shake the House, John Galliano focuses on inheritance Dior and haute couture is used to support the exclusivity and pyramidal altitude. Bernard Arnault also told the press that he was not question to waive or to save on the haute couture, "in the heart of the Dior House". Then return to these historical shows where the parades were once daily. This time, John Galliano has promised an electrifying show inspired by "cabin fever", or "this moment where the mannequins favorite Monsieur Dior, assisted by his muse, the mysterious and influential Mitzah Bricard, were in various stages of negligee".

The Haute Couture Dior clients pressing with hand of the Lady Dior bags in purple crocodile, a way to say that they have 70 variations and that it is the 71st. One can feel frissonnantes to be there. In the antrum, the factory of dreams post-cinéma: Sharon S. v., Marion, Monica M., Charlize t., Sofia, Eva g. deploy glamour ever beam to illuminate the mark. And it works: each new appearance, very calculated, of a muse, sales figures bounce.

The models arrive. Open mouth, hands on hips, the mossy hair planted a giant PIN. One has forgotten her skirt, displaying a Black Lace panties. At the end of the parade, Sidney Toledano, President of Dior wish explains to a client is in "high pants sewing, handmade... a technical nightmare." But when we see a lady come like that, it cannot be said that Yes! "On the grey carpet, the show turns in demonstration of maestria embroidered suits of thousand violets, dresses in tulle directory, games of mini-crinolines Ottoman with node coquette giant, finer." Opulence is there: red feathers Sun hats, a trail of Leopard on a white chiffon dress. The shock also lies in the proximity: clients are twenty centimetres of creations. John Galliano defends the new Dior turn towards the intimiste in place and place of enormous podiums that are remotely models: "we are at home, can finally touch the taffeta, smell the roses!"

Behind this large robe of courtesan open before and behind to leave see breeches hides a speech. He speaks to. The power to enter in Dior dress here and like this. A haute couture of first lady but not only. the Dior woman is not a woman of power, module Sidney Toledano, it is a free woman and which allows zooming on details of her wardrobe". Well said.

John Galliano shows that it is not fear color or sex while most brands are spent in the black and the sobre coping with recessions. He explained that the garter belt on the jackets of tailors are not just a fantasy added after midnight in a creative impetus. "I left a fantastic jacket created by Monsieur Dior for Marlene Dietrich in 1954." A technical development with it so that his jacket has the air into her skirt: it was totally dictated by the poses that she wanted to take "." The song, which accompanies the end of the parade and the salvation of John Galliano, braille in English "dream again and again and again and again and again" to infinity. The show ended, some clients may go talk to the artist in his studio. We can see the small secret garden with pink laurels, hydrangeas, wild and four iron chairs that should accommodate the break smoking during nocturnal fittings.

There is a small buffet with of amuse-bouches complicated, champagne, sweets Kréma and the energy drink. This is Mr Toledano, who pays in a flute champagne. How does to see long term in this world where everything is in the short term "There is the creation of the season but that plays between permanent codes and the air of the time." At Dior, just search the recurrence and the iconic, with the genius of John Galliano to put it in reverse and innovate. In the long term, what I am interested is the training of personnel, investments in the new territories, the production. But we also play in the short term not only by our hyper reactivity on communication. The words cannot be pronounced in Dior are "I can't", "I don't want", "normally". It is impossible to say it. We feel a passion and pride of work in this House, and without arrogance "."

More that economy, the President of Dior is concerned about the future of all these know-how: "We must protect the trades and the workshops which still exist." Need to remotivate the youth to become designers or seamstresses. My fear is more there than on the past or future economic turbulence. I know just at the exit of the corner, it will be head to accelerate. And the products must be exceptional. Dior products. "